Lake Malawi!

The lake was really fun. It’s a huge lake, and quite beautiful. It looks like a small ocean; actually K’s youngest daughter thinks all large bodies of water are lakes now. The fam picked me up and we met up with another family who was driving the front tractor part of a big shipping truck, because the husband runs a trucking company. It’s actually really cool inside, with bunk beds that all the kids rode on. K got to drive it to the lake, fulfilling her dream of being a long-distance trucker. I continued to ride in the normal car to the lake. As we drove on, the terrain got a bit more hilly and scenic.

Before Salima we stopped to buy some firewood at the side of the road. No one was standing next to it, but a man on a bike rode up and helped us find the owner of the wood and then helped us load it on top of the car. As I was getting back in the car, he began his sales pitch. I figured he had jewelry or curios or something. He opened his bag and had some kind of green herb inside in huge quantities. “What’s that?” I asked, expecting some delightful culinary insight. “Marijuana!” he replied, quite proud of his wares. Oh no, nooooo noo no, no thanks. Chamba is grown out by the lake, so I guess I shouldn’t have been surprised. It was pretty funny.

We drove through Salima, passing by lots of curios and baskets and big woven mats and wicker and wood furniture. And people selling the usual slabs of meat that have been hanging outside since god knows when, and mice on a stick! I haven’t seen it up close, so I don’t know if they’re cooked already or what, but mice on a stick is highly recognizable, as it involves a large wooden skewer with mice kabobbed on there, tails and heads and all. The purveyors of these goods generally make sure to line up the mice for the most aesthetically pleasing skewer possible.

We got to Steps Campground, next to a big hotel. It’s a wonderful beachy place with bathrooms and fire pits and giant rocks for climbing (but not swimming near… big ass undertow, apparently), next to a lovely rocky hill. There were also lots of yellow baboons around, hanging out behind the bathroom. It also has a lovely beach bar, which we immediately patroned for some greens. (Word apparently doesn’t like patron as a verb). Carlsberg isn’t bad as beers go, but I’ll be pleased to return to a greater variety of brews. Anyway, there was wave surfing and rock climbing and laughing at kids and building of giant fires. There were like 10 families there or something crazy like that. So it was a big party.

I slept like crap because I’d had one or two too many greens and was dehydrated, and the tent shook violently all night with the wind, which only got more fierce after sundown. It was nice because it meant we didn’t have to worry about mosquitos, but it was super annoying for trying to sleep in a tent. (Okay, Word, seriously, mosquitoes? That just looks stupid. Isn’t it a Spanish word?) I got up around 6, and it was kind of cold, which it stayed most of the day. Of course, I’m always colder when I’m sleep deprived. Anyway, we had kind of a roving breakfast, with different parts of the camp making different things, and we mostly just sat around and chatted. The kids did go play in the water, being crazy little monkeys. A couple of the guys went to climb the big rock with actual equipment. There was a small guitar concert later on. And then it was time to pack up and go!

The big truck got stuck in the sand, pretty much on the only sandy part near where we were camped, so not a real sharp maneuvering job there. A bunch of guys came over and helped put boards and shit underneath and got it out. We were actually trying to help tow it out with this gnarly old tow rope that kept breaking. But it got out on it’s own and they headed on their way. But there was still one woman with her kids who just finished packing up. We figured she was probably fine, but we decided to wait and make sure she started off okay. Thank goodness! She turned the key and the sad rrr rrr rrr of non-startage came out. We tried to jump her to no avail. So we got to do some towing anyway! We called the big truck, since the guy who owns it is a mechanic, and we started out toward Salima. We knew we’d have to leave the car there if it couldn’t be fixed, because it was too hilly to tow it all the way back to town. But we met up with the truck crew and the guy quickly figured out what was wrong and got it started, so we were on our way!

All in all, I was really glad to get to see the lake, since by that point I was pretty sure I was going to have to switch my trip to Zambia and wouldn’t get to see it otherwise. It made me want to go to the beach when I get back and play in the water some more.

I guess I should probably go get tested for bilharzia when I get back, since I swam in the lake. I totally didn’t intend to (didn’t even bring a swimsuit… K lent me one), but it was a just too lovely and wavy. It’s a pretty easy treatment, so it’s totally worth it even if I have parasites now. :)